Generic placeholder image

Current Cosmetic Science

Editor-in-Chief

ISSN (Print): 2666-7797
ISSN (Online): 2666-7800

Research Article

Formulation Containing Phytosomes of Crocin-Rich Extract from Nyctanthes arbor-tristis and Petroselinic Acid from Coriandrum sativum seeds Exhibits Sunscreen and Moisturizing Effects

Author(s): Mansi Ravindra Kolambe, Archana Arvind Naik and Chhaya Harihar Gadgoli*

Volume 2, 2023

Published on: 22 June, 2023

Article ID: e030423215414 Pages: 15

DOI: 10.2174/2666779702666230403111920

Price: $65

Abstract

Background: Orange coloured tubular calyx of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis can be utilized as a substitute for saffron due to the presence of crocin, an apocarotenoid, which can act as a sunscreen agent. Petroselinic acid is reported to have a moisturizing effect on the skin.

Objective: To utilize the tubular calyx of Nyctanthes arbor- tristis as an economical source of crocin and Coriandrum sativum seed oil as a source of petroselinic acid for the development of a stable phytosomal gel formulation and to evaluate its sunscreen and moisturizing activities.

Methodology: Phytosomes of standardized crocin-rich extract and petroselinic acid were prepared separately by lipid film hydration technique. The phytosomes were then incorporated into a gel base prepared from dehydroxanthan gum, and it was evaluated for in-vitro sunscreen activity by using Mansur’s equation. Moisturizing effect of the phytosomal gel was evaluated on 10 healthy female volunteers with their informed consent, and the water content of the stratum corneum was measured by using a Digital Moisture detector pen before and 5 hours later the application of the gel.

Results: Mean initial moisture content of the skin was found to be 30.08 %, which was significantly (P < 0.05) raised to 45.59% at the end of 5 hours. Sun Protection Factor was found to be 15.09 and with a Boot Star rating of 2.

Conclusion: Entrapping the phytoconstituents in vesicles increased stability, and the formulation was found to have moderate protection and a good moisturizing effect on the skin.

[1]
Sommano, S.R.; Suppakittpaisarn, P.; Sringarm, K.; Junmahasathien, T.; Ruksiriwanich, W. Recovery of crocins from floral tissue of Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Front. Nutr., 2020, 7, 106.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3389/fnut.2020.00106] [PMID: 32984391]
[2]
Amrite, O.; Bhuskat, P.; Patel, N.; Gadgoli, C. Nyctanthes arbor-tristis- A Substitute for Saffron Color. Indian Drugs, 2007, 44(8), 640-642.
[3]
Amrite, O.; Bhuskat, P.; Patel, N.; Biyani, S.; Gadgoli, C. Evaluation of analgesic activity of carotenoid from Nyctanthes arbor-tristis. Adv. Pharmacol. Toxicol., 2007, 8(2), 55-58.
[4]
Nirmal, S.A.; Pal, S.C.; Mandal, S.C. Mast cell stabilizing and bronchodilatory activity of Nyctanthes arbortristis bark. Phytopharmacology, 2012, 2(1), 234-242.
[5]
Satyal, P.; Paudel, P.; Poudel, A.; Setzer, W.N. Chemical composition and biological activities of essential Oil from leaf and bark of Nyctanthesarbor-tristis L. from Nepal. Open Access J. J. Med. Aromat. Plants, 2012, 3(1), 1.
[6]
Naik, A.A.; Gadgoli, C.H.; Naik, A.B. Evaluation of gene expression and in vitro enzyme study for antiaging effect of crocin and lutein. Nat. Prod. J., 2020, 10(5), 595-604.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2174/2210315509666190801162217]
[7]
Golmohammadzadeh, S.; Jaafari, M.R.; Hosseinzadeh, H. Does saffron have antisolar and moisturizing effects? Iran. J. Pharm. Res., 2010, 9(2), 133-140.
[PMID: 24363719]
[8]
Davinelli, S.; Nielsen, M.; Scapagnini, G. Astaxanthin in skin health, repair, and disease: A comprehensive review. Nutrients, 2018, 10(4), 522.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/nu10040522] [PMID: 29690549]
[9]
Ito, N.; Seki, S.; Ueda, F. The protective role of astaxanthin for UV-induced skin deterioration in healthy people—a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Nutrients, 2018, 10(7), 817.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/nu10070817] [PMID: 29941810]
[10]
Ng, Q.X.; De Deyn, M.L.Z.Q.; Loke, W.; Foo, N.X.; Chan, H.W.; Yeo, W.S. Effects of astaxanthin supplementation on skin health: a systematic review of clinical studies. J. Diet. Suppl., 2021, 18(2), 169-182.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/19390211.2020.1739187] [PMID: 32202443]
[11]
Pandel, R.; Poljšak, B.; Godic, A.; Dahmane, R. Skin photoaging and the role of antioxidants in its prevention. ISRN Dermatol., 2013, 2013, 1-11.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2013/930164] [PMID: 24159392]
[12]
Amrite, O.; Bhuskat, P.; Patel, N.; Gadgoli, C. Evaluation of antioxidant activity of carotenoid from Nyctanthes arbor-tristis. Int. J. Pharmacol. Biol. Sci., 2007, 1(2), 57-59.
[13]
Cahoon, E.B.; Dörmann, P.; Ohlrogge, J.B. Petroselinic acid biosynthesis and production in transgenic plants. Prog. Lipid Res., 1994, 33(1-2), 155-163.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0163-7827(94)90018-3] [PMID: 8190735]
[14]
Placek, L.L. A review on petroselinic acid and its derivatives. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 1963, 40(8), 319-329.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/BF02631548]
[15]
Kleiman, R.; Spencer, G.F.; Earle, F.R.; Nieschlag, H.J.; Barclay, A.S. Tetra-acid triglycerides containing a new hydroxy eicosadienoyl moiety in Lesquerella auriculata seed oil. Lipids, 1972, 7(10), 660-665.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/BF02533073]
[16]
Murphy, D.J. Ed.; Plant lipids: Biology, Utilisation and Manipulation; John Wiley & Sons, 2009.
[17]
Sahib, N.G.; Anwar, F.; Gilani, A.H.; Hamid, A.A.; Saari, N.; Alkharfy, K.M. Coriander (Coriandrum sativum L.): a potential source of high-value components for functional foods and nutraceuticals--a review. Phytother. Res., 2013, 27(10), 1439-1456.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/ptr.4897] [PMID: 23281145]
[18]
Sayed-Ahmad, B.; Talou, T.; Saad, Z.; Hijazi, A.; Merah, O. The Apiaceae: Ethnomedicinal family as source for industrial uses. Ind. Crops Prod., 2017, 109, 661-671.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.indcrop.2017.09.027]
[19]
Goc, A.; Niedzwiecki, A.; Rath, M. Anti-borreliae efficacy of selected organic oils and fatty acids. BMC Complement. Altern. Med., 2019, 19(1), 40.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1186/s12906-019-2450-7] [PMID: 30717726]
[20]
Suzuki, R.; Noguchi, R.; Ota, T.; Abe, M.; Miyashita, K.; Kawada, T. Cytotoxic effect of conjugated trienoic fatty acids on mouse tumor and human monocytic leukemia cells. Lipids, 2001, 36(5), 477-482.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11745-001-0746-0] [PMID: 11432460]
[21]
Weinkauf, R.; Santhanam, U.; Palanker, L.R.; Januario, T.E.; Brinker, A. U.S. Patent No. 6,022,896, 2000.
[22]
Delbeke, E.I.P.; Everaert, J.; Lozach, O.; Le Gall, T.; Berchel, M.; Montier, T.; Jaffrès, P.A.; Rigole, P.; Coenye, T.; Brennich, M.; Baccile, N.; Roelants, S.L.K.W.; Soetaert, W.; Van Bogaert, I.N.A.; Van Geem, K.M.; Stevens, C.V. Lipid‐based quaternary ammonium sophorolipid amphiphiles with antimicrobial and transfection activities. ChemSusChem, 2019, 12(15), 3642-3653.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/cssc.201900721] [PMID: 31081279]
[23]
Use of an oil rich in petroselinic acid as hydrating agent. EP0709084A2, 2019.
[24]
Helfrich, Y.R.; Sachs, D.L.; Voorhees, J.J. Overview of skin aging and photoaging. Dermatol. Nurs., 2008, 20(3), 177-183.
[PMID: 18649702]
[25]
Cadet, J.; Berger, M.; Douki, T.; Morin, B.; Raoul, S.; Ravanat, J.L.; Spinelli, S. Effects of UV and visible radiation on DNA-final base damage. Biol. Chem., 1997, 378(11), 1275-1286.
[PMID: 9426187]
[26]
Oresajo, C.; Yatskayer, M.; Galdi, A.; Foltis, P.; Pillai, S. Complementary effects of antioxidants and sunscreens in reducing UV-induced skin damage as demonstrated by skin biomarker expression. J. Cosmet. Laser Ther., 2010, 12(3), 157-162.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3109/14764171003674455] [PMID: 20429687]
[27]
Sies, H.; Stahl, W. Carotenoids and UV Protection. Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2004, 3(8), 749-752.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1039/b316082c] [PMID: 15295630]
[28]
Stahl, W.; Krutmann, J. Systemic photoprotection through carotenoids. Hautarzt, 2006, 57(4), 281-285.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00105-006-1095-x] [PMID: 16463037]
[29]
Sravanthi, M.; Krishna, J.S. Phytosomes: A novel drug delivery for herbal extracts. Int. J. Pharm. Sci. Res., 2013, 4(3), 949-959.
[30]
Uitterhaegen, E. Coriander oil–extraction, applications and biologically active molecules (Doctoral dissertation, Master’s dissertation, Faculty of Bioscience Engineering Universiteit Gent, Belgium).., 2014.
[31]
Maryana, W.; Rachmawati, H.; Mudhakir, D. Formation of phytosome containing silymarin using thin layer-hydration technique aimed for oral delivery. Mater. Today Proc., 2016, 3(3), 855-866.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.matpr.2016.02.019]
[32]
Crawford, N. An improved method for the determination of free and total cholesterol using the ferric chloride reaction. Clin. Chim. Acta, 1958, 3(4), 357-367.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0009-8981(58)90025-1] [PMID: 13561504]
[33]
Stewart, J.C.M. Colorimetric determination of phospholipids with ammonium ferrothiocyanate. Anal. Biochem., 1980, 104(1), 10-14.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0003-2697(80)90269-9] [PMID: 6892980]
[34]
Sachin, K.S.; Adlin, J.N.J.; Tamizh, M.T. Preparation and evaluation curcumin phytosomes by reflux method. J. Glob. Trends Pharm. Sci., 2019, 10(2), 6241-6247.
[35]
Mariam Joshua, J.; Anilkumar, A.; Cu, V.; T Vasudevan, D.; A Surendran, S. Formulation and evaluation of antiaging phytosomal gel. Asian J. Pharm. Clin. Res., 2018, 11(3), 409.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.22159/ajpcr.2018.v11i3.24257]
[36]
Indian Standard, 2nd Revision,; Bureau of Indian Standards: New Delhi, IS 6608., 2004.
[37]
Indian Standard, 2nd Revision,; Bureau of Indian Standards: New Delhi, IS 4011:1997, 2004.
[38]
Sarpate, R.V.; Deore, T.K.; Patil, M.V.; Tupkari, S.V. Characterization of anthocyanins by GCMS. Int. J. Chem. Sci., 2010, 8(1), 415-423.
[39]
Diffey, B.L.; Robson, J. A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 1989, 40(3), 127-133.
[40]
Spruce, S. R.; Hewitt, J. P. In vitro SPF, methodology and correlation with in vivo data. Euro Cosmetics, 1995.
[41]
Kale, S.; Kulkarni, K.; Gajare, G. Formulation and in vitro evaluation for sun protection factor for oil from resin of commiphora mukul sunscreen cream. Int. J. Pharm. Biol. Sci., 2014, 4(2), 182-188.
[42]
Moldovan, M.; Ciortea, L. Efficacy evaluation of different cream formulations on healthy skin properties. Farmacia, 2010, 58(6), 787-794.
[43]
Cantrell, A.; McGarvey, D.J.; George Truscott, T.; Rancan, F.; Böhm, F. Singlet oxygen quenching by dietary carotenoids in a model membrane environment. Arch. Biochem. Biophys., 2003, 412(1), 47-54.
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0003-9861(03)00014-6] [PMID: 12646267]
[44]
Azad, N.H.; Nematzadeh, G.A.; Gouliano, G.; Ranjbar, G.A.; Yamchi, A. Identification of Apo-carotenoids' Crocin and Crocetin isomers in saffron crude extracts by HPLC coupled to atmospheric pressure chemical ionization and high resolution orbitrap mass spectrometry. Saffron agronomy and technol., 2017, 4(4), 291-300.

Rights & Permissions Print Cite
© 2024 Bentham Science Publishers | Privacy Policy