Abstract
In the past decades, nanocarriers have attracted attention as topical delivery systems for many compounds employed in the cosmetic field. This interest is justified by their ability to provide protection against degradation of liable molecules, the possibility to originate a local depot and prolong drug release, and the ability to overcome the barrier function of the skin and coencapsulation of compounds of varying physicochemical characteristics. The properties of nanocarriers vary with their composition and structure, which, in turn, influence the outcomes of topical treatment. In this review, we focused on three types of nanocarriers (namely, lipid and surfactant-based vesicles, nanoemulsions, and lipid nanoparticles) and discussed their main characteristics, influence on cutaneous transport, stability, and pharmacological effects employed in the cosmetic field. We also provided examples of commercially available products that utilize the nanocarriers discussed as well as patents relevant to this field.
Keywords: Topical delivery, skin penetration, lipid nanoparticles, ethosomes, niosomes, nanoemulsion.
Graphical Abstract
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0738-081X(01)00195-X] [PMID: 11535376]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/exd.14299] [PMID: 33544970]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.05.006] [PMID: 19695474]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2008.10.003] [PMID: 18992314]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/jps.24053] [PMID: 24961388]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12119] [PMID: 24697812]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.5650/jos.ess20093] [PMID: 33268665]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2014.12.002] [PMID: 25479097]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/nano10050898] [PMID: 32397093]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejpb.2017.04.008] [PMID: 28411056]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0169-409X(02)00118-7] [PMID: 12460720]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00433.x] [PMID: 18452432]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2017.11.023] [PMID: 29183800]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2174/157016311796799062] [PMID: 21291409]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1517/17425247.2012.666967] [PMID: 22394125]
[PMID: 25143733]
[PMID: 23293516]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3109/09687688.2010.522203] [PMID: 21028936]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1046/j.1467-2494.2001.00087.x] [PMID: 18498463]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1208/s12249-019-1307-1] [PMID: 30989451]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2004.02.032] [PMID: 15158950]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2021.120322] [PMID: 33549810]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2020.105533] [PMID: 32871214]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2020.105296] [PMID: 32151706]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1021/acs.jafc.0c02342] [PMID: 33164495]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3109/02652048.2010.513455] [PMID: 21034364]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2015.09.002] [PMID: 26398812]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2174/1381612826666200514221649] [PMID: 32410552]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2017.01.045] [PMID: 28131849]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.colsurfb.2020.111057] [PMID: 32388391]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.heliyon.2020.e03831] [PMID: 32395645]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2010.06.007] [PMID: 20541000]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1208/s12249-019-1547-0] [PMID: 32350635]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2011.05.010] [PMID: 21600969]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1208/s12249-020-01821-x] [PMID: 33073311]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejpb.2006.07.013] [PMID: 16971098]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2013.09.023] [PMID: 24157543]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2174/1389200218666170222152038] [PMID: 28228079]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1166/jnn.2020.16875] [PMID: 31383137]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.colsurfb.2019.03.036] [PMID: 30974262]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2012.03.042] [PMID: 22486962]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2012.12.005] [PMID: 23246734]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejpb.2007.01.015] [PMID: 17346953]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2009.05.020] [PMID: 19465098]
[PMID: 18203427]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.4155/ppa.13.79] [PMID: 24588596]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejpb.2016.06.014] [PMID: 27343822]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.biomaterials.2010.03.010] [PMID: 20413152]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.cis.2019.07.006] [PMID: 31351415]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.plipres.2021.101096] [PMID: 33831455]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0024-3205(80)90268-4] [PMID: 6893068]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00264.x] [PMID: 18492190]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/14764172.2017.1358451] [PMID: 28753057]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.colsurfb.2011.12.004] [PMID: 22205066]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/nano10020341] [PMID: 32079276]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-2494.1979.tb00224.x] [PMID: 19467076]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3109/03639045.2013.828219] [PMID: 23937582]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jconrel.2016.12.022] [PMID: 28024914]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s40005-018-00418-8]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1023/A:1016250422596] [PMID: 7784330]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jconrel.2007.12.013] [PMID: 18281119]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0005-2736(95)00100-H] [PMID: 7632711]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0005-2736(92)90154-E] [PMID: 1550849]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0168-3659(99)00222-9] [PMID: 10699298]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2006.12.005] [PMID: 17222523]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ddtec.2005.05.003] [PMID: 24981757]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2004.02.024] [PMID: 15113622]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2019.01.013] [PMID: 30654112]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jddst.2020.102045]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/adfm.201000484]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0168-3659(94)90039-6]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1098/rsfs.2017.0030] [PMID: 29147559]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2174/1389200219666180628171531] [PMID: 29956618]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.bbrc.2006.12.135] [PMID: 17204243]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1021/bm050999o] [PMID: 16677017]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jconrel.2019.03.003] [PMID: 30853528]
[PMID: 26719718]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.foodres.2011.07.025]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.sjbs.2015.10.025] [PMID: 28490948]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3109/08982104.2015.1088868] [PMID: 26585564]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jddst.2020.102035]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jddst.2017.12.003]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2013.11.017] [PMID: 24269286]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1529-8019.2012.01505.x] [PMID: 22913443]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.colsurfb.2013.09.055] [PMID: 24176892]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/antiox9060485] [PMID: 32503293]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2018.09.009] [PMID: 30201294]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.colsurfb.2014.02.036] [PMID: 24681045]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1529-8019.2007.00148.x] [PMID: 18045359]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S97573] [PMID: 28123310]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5010021]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jddst.2020.101693]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jddst.2019.04.039]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s40259-017-0243-4] [PMID: 28875300]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jconrel.2008.10.003] [PMID: 18973779]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1159/000509879] [PMID: 33080592]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.colsurfb.2014.12.032] [PMID: 25576809]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1529-8019.2006.00086.x] [PMID: 17014484]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/jocd.13993] [PMID: 33569865]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1211/jpp.58.2.0002] [PMID: 16451743]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics12020112] [PMID: 32019144]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1039/C8BM01555D] [PMID: 30821312]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.colsurfb.2015.06.029] [PMID: 26142626]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics6010052] [PMID: 24590260]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2017.07.023] [PMID: 28735040]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/10408398.2011.559558] [PMID: 21432697]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s13346-017-0390-7] [PMID: 28508377]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2019.02.011] [PMID: 30772460]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jconrel.2017.11.049] [PMID: 29199062]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1039/C2SM06903B]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/10717544.2018.1440665] [PMID: 29495885]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2019.118460] [PMID: 31247278]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/pr7090617]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3109/02652048.2015.1046513] [PMID: 26066775]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1208/s12249-016-0643-7] [PMID: 27757922]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2010.08.034] [PMID: 20813174]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijms12095946] [PMID: 22016637]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1023/A:1016255408348] [PMID: 7479554]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/jps.2600840312] [PMID: 7616372]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.addr.2003.10.025] [PMID: 15019749]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2011.09.014] [PMID: 21959104]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/jps.23482] [PMID: 23436680]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.cej.2019.02.168]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2011.05.008] [PMID: 21596122]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3889/oamjms.2019.745] [PMID: 31844431]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2020.09.167]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/13102818.2019.1620124]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11671-009-9469-5] [PMID: 20652152]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.carbpol.2011.05.027]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00403-019-01964-3] [PMID: 31432208]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1208/s12249-015-0408-8] [PMID: 26361953]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics12100953] [PMID: 33050380]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/polym13071016]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/nano11010217] [PMID: 33467701]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1039/C5RA24379C]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12044] [PMID: 23425085]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/nano10050848] [PMID: 32353979]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1159/000488993] [PMID: 30199861]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1155/2018/3420204] [PMID: 29785318]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2174/1381612825666190709211101] [PMID: 31584366]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.4103/0975-8453.59509]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.2147/IJN.S205350] [PMID: 31371955]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2017.00097] [PMID: 28194145]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-5173(01)00811-0] [PMID: 11532580]
[http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ejphar.2020.173172] [PMID: 32407724]